Do you feel some days that something isn’t quite right about what you decided to wear? But you brush it off with the usual, ‘It doesn’t matter, it’s what I say, not what I look like that counts!’
Unfortunately, that is not really a great approach in today’s competitive business world! I know you’re going to find me lots of examples of men who look at best, boringly okay, or who look downright scruffy and then tell me how successful they are. That is exactly my point! They are already successful. Are you as successful as you want to be? Then go and find another blog to read. If you think you would like a few more pointers to help you feel more confident and get the next contract, the next job, promotion, or indeed a new partner, then keep reading.
Your suit is the key element
As Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote ‘Being perfectly well dressed gives one a tranquillity that no religion can bestow’. There is nothing better than a well-fitted suit with a good quality shirt, to boost your confidence and get you ready for action! Looking sharp also means that you are interested in detail, this speaks volumes when it comes to winning contracts and to prospective employers. If you turn up in an ill-fitted suit it shows you as a ‘that will do’ sort of person.
What should you look for in a suit?
First of all, it is highly unlikely something ‘off the peg’ will fit you perfectly. In my experience lots of men just look at themselves from the front view of the suit and say ‘yes, it looks fine’. Have you ever thought to ask someone to take a picture of you in a suit from different angles all the way round with your jacket on? Try it now! Look at the pictures carefully, do you see the jacket sitting close to the body, following closely to body contours or, is it pulling across the back of the shoulders? Or conversely is there loads of material folding up? Look at the sleeves, do they hang straight from your shoulder to your wrist, or is one or both sides creating creases and folds, and worst of all, is it covering most of your hand?
I won’t bore you with any more questions but if you can see it isn’t correct then this is the limit of an ‘off the peg’ jacket, let alone the trousers and the shirt! Yes, you can have items altered but guess what, by the time you pay for the alterations, on top of the ‘off the peg’ suit you are better to look at purchasing one made to measure.
The advantages of a made to measure suit
There are so many, it’s difficult to know where to start! Possibly the most important point is you can choose all the elements you would like in a suit and be assured it will fit you regardless of size, height or proportions. You can choose the colour, cloth, lining, button hole detail, pocket shapes, single or double breasted, the possibilities are endless!
What should I look out for in a well-fitting suit?
It should appear as an extension of you! In other words, it should follow the body contours well without feeling too tight or too loose. The collar line should mould around your neck neatly, without gaping. The shoulder line should trace your shoulders, not make them look wider (a la 1980’s style) or narrower than they actually are. Trousers should sit neatly at the waist, and gently drape over your thighs without bunching or appearing too loose. Avoid very narrow legged trousers they are very current at the moment but will date the suit far more quickly than a straight legged pair, (they can also make your feet look incredibly long). If you have decided on a three piece, remember that the waist coat should finish just below the belt line. It also allows you to still look smart even if the jacket comes off.
What colour and fabric should I look out for?
To start with, a navy or grey fleck or maybe a birds eye weave would work well. The colour looks solid from a distance but has more interest the nearer you get to it. It means you can wear it for work or weddings or social occasions with a simple change of shirt and shoe combination. Pure wool and wool mixes are great for most times of year as it doesn’t crease. Linen and silk mixes are great at warmer times of the year. There are different weights of wool, however unless you are going to be outdoors walking the moors, a mid-weight wool is going to serve you well in air-conditioned offices. You can add colour with the lining, pocket handkerchief and the tie, should you be wearing one.
What type of shirt works best?
For your first made to measure shirt I would choose a smart white or off-white coloured shirt of average collar proportions. It needs to balance well with the size and width of your neck, nothing too extreme, remember you want to look current but not too fashion driven. Even if you don’t want to wear a tie it should look as though you can button it up (there maybe the odd occasion you do, so don’t get caught out!). Avoid button down collars as this looks a bit too ‘relaxed’. I love double cuffs as this gives you the chance to wear some really cool cufflinks, however, if you do not like cufflinks a simple button cuff will suffice. Don’t try and ‘make do’ with an ‘off the peg’ shirt, it stands out a mile when worn with a suit that is tailor made for you, trust me!
Finally, the feet!
Please remember, dirty, worn, tired shoes cannot be worn with a stylish made to measure suit. It cheapens the look of the whole outfit. Again, be careful of extreme styles, a good investment in a pair of Churches, Loake’s or Edward Green will pay dividends. They will last you years and if you send them back to the factory for re heeling they will literally last you a lifetime. If you are in a more creative or dynamic field, try Jeffery West shoes. They make a real statement, but make sure it is not your shoes they remember you for if it’s an important business meeting or interview! Colour is also a consideration. Keep to black if it’s a black suit but if its grey or navy there is lots of choice, try tan, black or burgundy. However, if you have a brown suit try deep burgundy.
In Conclusion
So, there you have it, a well-dressed man gets far more attention and respect than a poorly dressed one! It is your opportunity to show your friends and business colleagues alike that you are a leader who is both inspirational and individual. You can show the world that distinction doesn’t have to be brash and showy, just classically good quality and impeccable good taste.
If you would like any further information about this topic please do contact me, Dean Anderson dean@saintcrispin.co.uk.
